Gouda Cheesemakers Battle Climate Change and Rising Sea Levels

⏱️ 12 min read                            

The charming city of Gouda, renowned for its world-famous cheese, is facing an existential threat. Beneath its beautiful streets and historic cheese markets lies a troubling reality. As sea levels rise, this historic hub of Dutch cheesemaking is slowly sinking. 

Despite the ingenious efforts of the Netherlands' water managers, the future of Gouda's cheese industry hangs in the balance. Experts say the industry may not survive there, even with the ingenuity of the country’s water managers.

This eye-opening journey into the heart of climate change and its impact on one of the world's most cherished culinary traditions is quickly running out of time…fast.

Welcome to That's Life, I Swear.  This podcast is about life's happenings in this world that conjure up such words as intriguing, frightening, life-changing, inspiring, and more. I'm Rick Barron your host. 

That said, here's the rest of this story 

Gouda, a quaint town known for its centuries-old cheese market, lies in the heart of the Netherlands. Every week, the cobblestone square transforms into a vibrant display of golden wheels, echoing a tradition that stretches back to medieval times.

Visitors witness an animated scene as local farmers, dressed in traditional Dutch attire with wooden clogs, engage in spirited price negotiations with buyers. One such farmer, clad in blue and red, discusses the merits of his "jong belegen," a Gouda cheese celebrated for its subtle caramel flavor. While this cheese bears the town's name worldwide, it's just one of many varieties traded here.

Although the haggling appears genuine, it's primarily a show for tourists, with actual business conducted behind the scenes. Nevertheless, the cheese industry in this region is a significant economic force, generating approximately 60% of the country's cheese output and contributing $1.7 billion annually to export revenues, according to industry data from ZuivelNL.

However, the future of this iconic market is uncertain. Experts warn that within the timeframe of 2074 and 2124, Gouda's cheese market might cease to exist in its current location. The town, built on built on peat marsh, has always been prone to subsidence. This vulnerability is exacerbated by climate change, which brings increased rainfall and rising sea levels from the North Sea, threatening to inundate the river delta where Gouda sits.

"The situation is dire," warns Professor Gilles Erkens from Utrecht University, who leads research on land subsidence. "We're facing a critical challenge that demands immediate attention."

Gouda, is in danger of sinking land due to subsidence caused by the city's weight on the peat marsh soil it's built on. The oldest part of the city center sinks at a rate of 3–6 millimeters per year, while newer areas sink by 1–2 centimeters per year. In some places, the ground sinks as much as 10 millimeters per year. 

So, why is this sinking issue happening?

Over the years of the Netherlands existence, the Dutch have been reclaiming land over open wetlands. 

The Dutch were meaningful in building canals, dunes, and walls to live around (and on top of) reclaimed land from the North Sea.

The constant draining of these wetlands to gain farmland can cause soil to vanish. When wetlands dry, oxygen from the air creeps into the soil and oxygen-breathing microbes start to munch up peat and convert it to carbon dioxide for energy. This shrinks and weakens the soil, leading to subsidence.

Though this is mostly a rural problem, Gouda is built right on top of peat soils! 

Looking ahead, the future of Gouda's iconic cheese industry appears uncertain. Professor Jan Rotmans of Erasmus University Rotterdam, known for his work on global crises, has studied the rise of sea level in the area. His findings suggest a dramatic transformation of the Green Heart region, where Gouda is located. By 2100, he envisions this land either submerged or converted into floating urban centers.

"A century from now, it's unlikely we'll see Gouda cheese produced in its namesake town," Rotman states. "If the landscape becomes aquatic and cattle farming ceases, cheese production will likely shift eastward, losing its Gouda identity."

The Netherlands' geological history plays a key role in this predicament. Much of the country, including Gouda, was established on peat marshlands centuries ago. This soft, compressible soil poses ongoing challenges, as Michel Klijmij-van der Laan, a local official overseeing sustainability and ground subsidence, points out.

The city faces a critical deadline. Experts see that they only have a two to three decades window, to devise innovative strategies. Traditional methods, like water pumping, won't suffice in the long run due to escalating costs. The Dutch need to explore fresh, sustainable solutions to secure Gouda's future."

Gouda, a city of approximately 75,000 people, is taking proactive measures to address its sinking predicament. Currently, the municipality allocates over $22 million annually to combat water-related issues. This substantial budget covers a range of activities, from daily upkeep and repairs to comprehensive system upgrades and pipe replacements. However, local officials anticipate this figure will rise significantly in the coming years.

The unexpected rate of subsidence is particularly down to the dry summers, along with agriculture, salt extraction and the extraction of natural gas. The resulting damages are estimated to hit as high as $22 billion euros by 2050, for a large part due to the repairs to the foundations of buildings which will be needed. Additionally, it is not just visible damage which is being caused by subsidence; the sinking ground is also causing large emissions of CO2 due to oxidization of peat.

The city has established a national knowledge hub in a prominent building overlooking the market square to spearhead innovative solutions. This center is a collaborative space where diverse experts, including policymakers, scientists, and architects, convene to brainstorm and develop strategies for Gouda's future.

Recently, the city council has launched a short-term initiative dubbed "Gouda Firm City." This project aims to regulate water levels in the city's core by implementing a dual-dam system on the Turfmarkt canal. By pumping excess water into nearby rivers, the plan seeks to gradually lower the water table by approximately 25 centimeters (10 inches).

Michel Klijmij-van der Laan, a key figure in the city's sustainability efforts, was crucial in establishing the knowledge center. He emphasizes the urgency of finding innovative approaches to ensure Gouda's long-term viability in the face of these environmental challenges.

Professor Rotmans of Erasmus University voices strong concerns about the region's future. He emphasizes the critical need for revolutionary strategies to be developed within the next decade. His frustration stems from what he perceives as a lack of urgency in addressing the unique vulnerabilities of this densely populated, low-lying area, home to numerous people, livestock, and industries.

"Our delta region boasts unparalleled protection, yet, it's exceptionally vulnerable," Rotmans points out. "The apparent complacency among climate experts is deeply troubling. I wouldn't be surprised if we face a significant calamity within the next two decades. Perhaps only then will we see a true wake-up call."

Michel Klijmij-van der Laan offers insight into the community's perspective. He notes that many residents have become desensitized to the ongoing challenges, viewing them as an inherent part of life in the area.

"For locals, it's simply part of everyday existence," Klijmij-van der Laan explains. "They routinely elevate their gardens, adjust street levels, and accept higher property taxes than other parts of the Netherlands. This familiarity with the situation can sometimes mask its true gravity."

This contrast between expert alarm and local adaptation highlights the complex nature of addressing long-term environmental threats in areas with deep-rooted cultural and economic traditions.

In Gouda, the encroaching water is an ever-present reality. Along the Turfmarkt canal, water levels nearly reach the top of the barriers, with blooming water lilies floating at street level. This picturesque scene belies the challenges faced by the historic city center.

The quaint alleys of old Gouda frequently suffer from flooding, often contaminated with sewage. Many buildings in this area experience regular cellar flooding, requiring constant pumping. The persistent moisture leads to mildew growth, causing plaster walls to crack and deteriorate.

Michel Klijmij-van der Laan, a local official, points out a particularly vulnerable aspect of Gouda's architecture. There are over a thousand structures in Guda’s oldest districts that are supported by wooden piles. Ironically, these foundations are at risk when ground moisture levels drop too low, leading to rot."

Professor Gilles Erkens from Utrecht University adds, "In the heart of our historic district, numerous houses are essentially standing in water. Basement flooding is a common occurrence for many residents."

Despite these challenges, the atmosphere in Gouda remains relaxed. Many locals seem to maintain a sense of confidence, perhaps rooted in the Netherlands' renowned expertise in water management. After all, Dutch engineers have a long history of taming water, having built much of the country on marshland through an intricate network of dams, dikes, and canals.

This juxtaposition of visible water encroachment and apparent local nonchalance highlights the complex relationship between long-standing environmental challenges and cultural adaptation in this historic Dutch city.

In the heart of Gouda, Marco van der Horst runs D.G. van Vreumingen, a tobacconist shop with nearly two centuries of history. The owner reflects a common local sentiment: "The gradual sinking is imperceptible year to year. We acknowledge the need for action, but there's no imminent threat of flooding. Water management has been and will continue to be a Dutch specialty."

This confident outlook, however, contrasts sharply with the warnings of Professor Rotmans from Erasmus University. He cautions against complacency, stating, "Projecting 50 to 100 years ahead, the costs of managing water levels will become astronomical given the rising seas and sinking land. It's unrealistic to think we can indefinitely control this situation."

Meanwhile, Gouda's famous cheese market buzzes with activity under clear blue skies. The atmosphere is festive, with a brass band providing a lively soundtrack. Amidst the crowd, Wijtze Visser, sporting a vibrant yellow suit and red tie, dances cheerfully with a spectator.

When questioned about the looming water threat, Visser's response echoes the prevalent local attitude: "I already reside seven meters below sea level. A slight increase won't drastically change my situation. I'm confident my children's generation will manage fine too."

However, when pressed about the more distant future, Visser pauses thoughtfully before conceding, "Beyond that? Yes, it's certainly a concern."

This scene encapsulates the complex interplay between tradition, local optimism, and the sobering long-term environmental projections for this historic Dutch city. 

What can we learn from this story? What's the takeaway?

Between the sinking land and rising seas, soon more of Gouda will be below sea level. It’s impressive to see how much water in the Netherlands is an actively managed system, with water levels carefully controlled by dikes, locks and pumps. It is only because the Netherlands is a wealthy country that so much land below sea level can be maintained…at least for the time being.

Well, there you go, my friends; that's life, I swear

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